Mexico’s National Archive is conveniently located a few blocks from the TAPO bus station (which has a metro stop) and on a corner that intersects a variety of bus routes.
Odd security measures restrict access. As with any Mexican federal building, Merely getting into the building requires a Photo ID, signature, and stashing anything you can’t fit in a pocket/purse in a locker. You can carry a laptop in (as well as power cord and a few sheets of paper), but have to register it and show that form to compare with the serial number. To access documents, you need a referral letter from your University. There seem to be exceptions, and they didn’t even really look at mine, but that’s the official stance. You also fill out a form about your topic, contact info, and sign your understanding of federal laws without a discussion of what those laws are. Finally, the AGN reserves the right to two copies of anything you publish using their material. The National Library has essentially the same practice for their Special Collections, and to access anything there you have to fill out a form and provide a photo ID.
I asked about copying material to microfilm and was told that copying required a few days worth of permission and effort, so they discouraged requests. Before I could look too disappointed, the official said that non-flash photos of the documents were perfectly acceptable. I’ve averaged between 800 and 900 a day, and several other researchers seem to fit a similar range, so I really can’t figure out what they gain by this.
Laminating your ID card is a good idea, and can be done for a few pesos at certain Papelerias that are easy enough to find. One across from the Archive’s entrance sells batteries and cloth gloves ($20 pesos) as well as latex ($8 pesos). If your camera doesn’t recharge, get rechargeable batteries (a few hundred pesos, depending), as batteries are more expensive here.
The online guide to the AGN provides citation information and summaries for the majority of holdings, and several sections are scanned. The card catalog only serves a few sections-- Cedulas Reales Duplicadas y Originales, Correspondencia Virreyes, and isolated Indios and General de Parte. You can only request documents based on citation information. Archivists will help you find information but they’re often overwhelmed by requests. Various guides were published in the 1950s, but there is not much demand for them so they aren’t sold in the AGN. I tracked a few down in the National Library at UNAM, but they weren’t too helpful. Others are held at other libraries but full sets are rare.
The archivists prefer a few requests at once from you because it saves them plenty of time, but don’t request more than 5 at once, as they’ll simply not get more for you. If you only know the volume number, specify either “all expedientes” or simply “todo,” as several Archivo Historico de Hacienda volumes are split up based on expedientes. Occasionally there will be two volumes in that section with the same number—specify you’re not sure and want all of them. Turn in a slip of paper with your Archive ID badge for a request, and remember to turn material in and ask for your id back if you need to leave the room. Small bathrooms are in each document room, as are computers with access to the online guide, but you can’t use the internet in the document rooms. Within the building are little outdoor areas you can take a quick break, and there’s a gift shop that connects to an area where free wireless is provided. Mexico City itself is largely wireless now, too.
The building houses an interesting exhibit about Mexican Independence, and seems to be starting the renovating process. Guards are scattered throughout the Archive, including one for each document room to make sure everyone is a recognized researcher.
That said, I have returned from lunch without showing my id and a VIP tour went through the Colonial Documents room and even filmed storage areas. Also, a stray cat more than once has made it to the entrance of his choice of rooms.
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